To polish leather shoes, brush off the dirt, apply a thin layer of polish with a cloth in small circles, let it dry for about 10 minutes, then brush briskly with a horsehair brush and buff with a soft cloth. The whole routine takes around 15 minutes and keeps leather protected as well as shiny.
In this guide
What you need
- Shoe polish in a matching colour, or neutral
- A horsehair shine brush
- A soft cotton cloth (an old T-shirt works well)
- A small dauber brush or second cloth for applying polish
- Leather conditioner
- Shoe trees, or paper to stuff the shoes
- Newspaper or a towel to protect the surface you are working on
Cream polish or wax polish?
| Type | What it does | Finish | Use it for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cream polish | Nourishes leather and restores colour; covers scuffs | Soft, natural shine | Regular care, faded or scuffed shoes |
| Wax polish | Builds a hard protective layer on the surface | High shine; adds water resistance | Toe caps and heels, formal shoes |
| Liquid polish | Quick colour and shine from a sponge applicator | Fast, but can dry leather with heavy use | Occasional touch-ups |
For the best result, use cream first for colour and conditioning, then a thin layer of wax on top for shine.
How to polish shoes: step by step
- Prepare. Remove the laces and insert shoe trees so the leather is firm and creases are opened up.
- Clean. Brush off dust and dirt, then wipe with a slightly damp cloth and let the shoes dry. Polishing over dirt grinds it into the leather.
- Condition (every few polishes). Rub in a small amount of conditioner and let it absorb for 10 to 15 minutes.
- Apply polish. Wrap the cloth around two fingers, pick up a small amount and work it into the leather in small circles. Cover the whole shoe evenly, including the tongue and the welt. Thin layers work better than one thick one.
- Let it dry for about 10 minutes, until it looks dull.
- Brush. Use quick, light strokes with the horsehair brush across the whole shoe. The friction warms the polish and brings up the shine.
- Buff with a clean, soft cloth for the final finish.
- Re-lace and leave the shoes for a few hours before wearing if you can.
Related: How to Fix Flip Flops: Broken Straps, Pulled-Out Plugs and Worn Soles
How to get a mirror shine on the toe caps
- After the normal polish, put a tiny amount of wax polish on a cloth wrapped tightly over your finger.
- Add a single drop of water to the leather.
- Work the wax in with very light, small circles until the haze disappears.
- Repeat with thin layers, a drop of water each time, until the surface turns glassy. Expect five to ten layers.
Only do this on the toe cap and heel, which do not flex. A thick wax layer over the creasing area will crack. If creases are already deep, see how to uncrease shoes.
Choosing the colour
- Match the polish as closely as you can; if in doubt, go one shade lighter, not darker.
- Neutral polish adds shine to any colour without changing it, but does not cover scuffs.
- Test on the inner side of the heel first.
How often should you polish shoes?
- Worn most days: a quick brush after each wear and a polish every one to two weeks.
- Worn occasionally: polish every five or six wears, and before storing.
- Condition every third or fourth polish, or when the leather looks dry.
What not to polish
Suede and nubuck should never be polished; use a suede brush instead, as described in how to clean suede shoes. Patent leather needs only a wipe with a damp cloth. For boots that need a deep clean before polishing, start with how to clean leather boots.
Frequently asked questions
Is shoe polish the same as shoe cream?
Not quite. Cream has more pigment and conditioning oils and gives a soft shine. Wax polish sits on the surface, shines more and repels water.
Can I polish shoes without a brush?
Yes. Apply and buff with a soft cloth. A horsehair brush is faster and gives a more even shine.
How long should polish dry before buffing?
About 10 minutes, until the surface looks matt. Buffing too soon smears the polish.
Why does my polish look streaky?
Usually too much polish, or polishing over dirt. Brush firmly to even it out and use thinner layers next time.
